Irresistible dishes like smoky kalbi barbecued ribs, savory bulgogi grilled beef and tangy kimchi fermented vegetables can be found on practically every Korean restaurant menu in the U.S.
You may be wondering, why Sprite?
The answer is complex, but it's the refreshingly sweet and tangy flavor that Korean American cooks seem to appreciate most. Judy Joo, author of the upcoming cookbook Korean Food Made Simple (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt) and host of “Korean Food Made Simple" on the Cooking Channel says Sprite became a substitute for mirin, a Japanese rice wine similar to sake, but lower in alcohol content and higher in sugar. Mirin was once harder to find and expensive.
Photo Credit: Gabi Porter
Ji Mil Liu, whose family ran a popular Korean restaurant in San Francisco says that while “old-school Koreans use alcohol and fruits such as pear, other Koreans resort to shortcuts." Korean-American chef Clara Park concurs. “It's the ultimate shortcut for a lot of cooks,” Park writes. “It's a very savory cuisine, but we do add sugar to a lot of things. A lot of restaurants use it in marinades and sauces because it adds sugar, citrus flavor and effervescence. It ties back to the traditional way Koreans use fruit and alcohol in their cooking."
Recently published cookbook Koreatown captures recipes inspired by restaurants in Korean enclaves across the U.S. Two of the recipes in the book use soft drinks. It's used in a sweet and spicy sauce and in a recipe for donghimi, a short-fermented radish kimchi. The authors note that this radish can be use used to make a refreshing cold noodle dish. Simply boil white wheat somen noodles, drain and chill the noodles in cold water and serve them in a bowl with the pickled radish and its liquid poured on top as a soup then garnish with cucumber, scallions, tomato and chile pepper slices.
Photo Credit: Sam Horine
Photo Credit: Sam Horine
Unlike the spicy red kimchis, dongchimi is a white “water kimchi." The pickling liquid is more of a broth and is slurped up with the tender radish. It's wonderful—sour but without an overpowering pop, a little sweet and spicy.
When buying the radishes for this kimchi, it's important to distinguish between Japanese (daikon) and Korean (mu) varieties. Japanese daikon is longer, thinner and slightly sweeter—and likely what you will find at your usual grocery stores. Korean radish is shorter and rounder and contains more water. A good Korean radish has a distinctive crunch and strong vegetable flavor, which is smoothed out after a couple days in the liquid, and they are strongly preferred for this. The kimchi will be ready in a week or so, depending on the season, and will keep for several months, evolving in flavor over time.
4 pounds Korean radish, peeled and cut into quarters
1 head of napa cabbage, quartered
4 tablespoons sugar
10 tablespoons coarse sea salt
1 onion, quartered
1 red apple, peeled, cored and quartered
1 Asian pear, peeled, cored and quartered
12 garlic cloves
2-inch knob of ginger
1 bunch scallions, trimmed
18 cups water
4 long, hot red chile peppers, thinly sliced with seeds removed
1 12-ounce can Sprite
MAKES 4 POUNDS KIMCHI, PLUS BRINE
1. In a large airtight container, combine radish and cabbage with the sugar and sea salt. Allow to sit, covered, at room temperature for 24 hours.
2. The next day, the daikon and cabbage should have released a good amount of liquid. Do not strain this liquid; it's important in the fermentation process.
3. Add the onion, apple, pear, garlic, ginger, scallions, chile peppers and 18 cups of water, making sure the vegetables are fully submerged. Seal tightly with the lid and let sit at room temperature for 3 to 5 days (in the summer) or closer to a week during cooler weather. Check on it and taste it daily; it should taste a little soured with some nice depth, which will grow the longer it ages.
4. When the kimchi is to your liking, season the dongchimi liquid with the Sprite to add a refreshing sweetness. It should have a good balance of “funk" from the fermentation and a good spice kick from the chile peppers. Refrigerated, dongchimi keeps for several months. Serve ice cold, adding ice cubes if needed.
Reprinted and adapted from Koreatown: A Cookbook. Copyright © 2016 by Deuki Hong and Matt Rodbard. Photograph of Dongchimi copyright © 2016 by Sam Horine. Photograph of Bibimbap copyright © 2016 by Gabi Porter. Published by Clarkson Potter, an imprint of Penguin Random House, LLC.